The history of the tie on pocket from the 1660’s to 1900 may not seem to have wide appeal or a broad audience, but for those interested in fashion history and the social politics of gender and class of the time period, I can highly recommend this book. It is full of details, not just about the pockets and what they contained, but also their role in the tumultuous dynamic between genders and class.
I have a passing and amateur interest in fashion history, but what I enjoyed most about this book was the glimpse into the every day lives of women of all classes. Usually the story of the lives of working class women are difficult to tell. Many did not read or write or do anything in particular that would make their lives noted in the history books. But the history of their pockets, an extremely personal and often hidden belonging, finally can tell their story. This book also delves into the complicated social relationships determined by class and gender.
18th Century Pockets
There are many beautiful images in the book of surviving examples of pockets and the belongings found in them. Some have stunning embroidery and the needlework shows the skill and dedication of its owner. Other examples are made from simple sturdy fabrics with evidence of much wear and repair. From the rich to the desperately poor, women of all classes wore pockets and kept both precious and everyday necessities in them.
Telling the Story of the Pocket
Each surviving pocket is unique and makes the women who wore them come alive. Because pockets were usually worn under women’s skirts hidden from view, they provided a distinctly private place for women to keep their belongings. For many women, this may have been the only place where they could have privacy and control.
To piece together this story, the authors used various resources including surviving examples, letters, newspapers, wills and other writings of the time period. One of the richest resources, especially for working class women, were the court records that survive in the Old Bailey, a criminal court in England. The content of various pockets are detailed in court records of crimes such as theft and sometimes murder. While this resource did provide a wealth of information of the contents of many women’s pockets, I found it a bit sad and a little depressing to get a glimpse of their lives through moments of vulnerability and desperation.
Inside the Pockets
Along with examples of the pockets themselves, the book covers some of the interesting things often found in the pockets. As you’d expect ordinary items such money, handkerchiefs, & important papers were common. Because pockets were often one of the few private places a woman could call her own, other treasures were also kept in there such as locks of hair, love letters, keys, jewelry, sewing kits, tools and so much more.
Hussif/Housewife Sewing Kit
I was particularly inspired by the hussif/housewife sewing kits. Though they originally were for soldiers as part of their kit, women also made practical and beautiful examples for themselves as well.
I decided to make one for myself. Check out my hussif project post.
Pocket Case
Tools such as scissors, rules, spoons, etc were commonly carried in pockets as well. It reminds me of Mary Poppins’ infamous bag, carrying everything you can imagine in its magical interiors. There was much mystery and discussion surrounding the possibilities of a woman’s pockets and what secret things they might contain.
Get the Book
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The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives
by Barbara Burman & Ariane Fennetaux Published 2019
I purchased my copy from Amazon, but you can also check your local library or bookstore for a copy.
If you want more fashion history check out...
The Journal of Dress History
This awesome resource is completely free and has a wealth of information about different eras and specific areas of fashion history. The Winter 2020 issue is where I discovered this book. The book review section was my favorite part since it helped me decide which books I might be interested in.
